It's been on running the display from my server for several hours, and seems to work great. #OPTIQUEST MONITOR Q9B 2 MANUAL PLUS#What do I find, but one of the lamps is unplugged! So I plug it back in, put the shield back on, plus the power in, and it works. So today I opened it up to see if I could fix it (to give my bro as a graduation gift). I received one of these (Optiquest Q9) a few weeks back for free, because it "didn't work." I plugged it in and the backlights would only work for a second or two. Is that just a buzzword to get you to pay $10 to $50 more? Has anyone heard of the Hakko types of irons? I also couldn't really tell a difference between the ESD/non ESD boxes. I bought a 60W Hakko ESD (not to be confused the the Chinese brands Yakko and Quakko which look identical and have the same number scheme). It seems that, in hindsight, the stick irons we used at school were 40W after all. I know, the FAQ says minimum 40W, but I assumed because I had done soldering on circuit boards with stick irons before, that I could do it again. I ordered another iron because the 22W stick just wasn't cutting it. I'm wondering if the voltages the earlier rev puts out differ from the later rev D board.Īs for my soldering progress - I have none to report yet, as the iron just wasn't cutting it. I'm curious, what kind of caps did you replace the CapXon (aka crapxon) with? Did you replace the big behemoth (400V) cap, or keep it? Just wondering, because the consensus here seems to be that the input filter caps (is that the right term?) don't take as much of a beating as the littler caps (pi filters? voltage regulators?). By substituting higher quality (not just higher spec) parts, the problem can be avoided. The problem is the original caps were unable to stand up to the high surge currents of in the switching mode power supply. If the new caps resurrect the TFT monitor I will report back. I took the monitor apart as I suspected a SMPSU fault, and noted the 4 swollen caps.Ī net search for known faults on this PSU brought me here. This TFT monitor was taking longer and longer to switch on, then eventually would not switch on at all, just emitting fairly quiet clicking noises. The question I have is:- was the cap bad (they are now), or has something else been subjecting it to working conditions outside its normal operating tolerances? Do you cure a symptom rather than the underlying problem by cap replacement? I don't say this is the right thing to do necessarily. So I too will be replacing the caps with panasonics, but at 25V or higher rating, providing the package size suits. In my days of building kits we were told you can substitute with a higher voltage rating, but not a lower one. I noted that the capacitors which were showing signs of distress (domed) were rated at 16V, but adjacent caps with the same capitance, but a higher voltage rating (25V) were not. In fact you can still see their location on the new board shown above, as it is only a revision. It is very similar to the above layout for the PI-SB03, but with a few more CapXon caps. Version 1 (?) of this power supply unit, a digital decade PI-SB01, which is probably a SMPSU, did run my TFT monitor. Replace them all, except the big one if you don't want to do it. #OPTIQUEST MONITOR Q9B 2 MANUAL CODE#I have a list of all the CapXon capacitors on the board (all are KF 105C date code P640 = 2006, Week 40): Seems to be a T 3.15A/250V black/radial type fuse with the word bel in the center. The board is labeled as follows:Ĭaution: For continous protection against risk of fire replace only with same type and rating fuse. I'm fairly certain the fuse is blown, also. When I pulled the power (inverter?) board from both of these units, I see the same thing, a single leaky CapXon capacitor. Both purchased in the same time frame (from CDW), both died after 13 to 16 months of very light use. I have a pair of Optiquest Q9 (Actually Q9B-2, I think the B means refurbished).
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